2011 f250 6.7 powerstroke high current batterie junction box Wiring over lay performed, smart junction box had few fuses blown and have been replaced. When ignition is turned on abs lights and park brake light on in dash, oil pressure . Wholesale aluminum cnc milling parts manufacturer provides custom service as well. Contact us for price of cnc milling aluminum parts. One-stop solution for Sheet Metal Fabrication & CNC .
0 · ford powerstroke 6.7 battery
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2 · ford f350 6.7 diesel dully battery
3 · ford f350 6.7 battery replacement
4 · ford 6.7 battery replacement
5 · 2011 ford truck battery problems
6 · 2011 ford truck battery cable
7 · 2011 ford f250 battery cable
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You are correct - it is the high current junction box that handles the alternator. Here is the gasser schematic and diesel schematic to give you an idea of what you need to do: Under warranty, Ford replaced that battery with an OEM Motorcraft BXT-65-750 battery with a full replacement warranty of 12m or 12,000 miles. 1. Is it best to replace the other battery now or wait until it fails? Not . 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - 2011 positive battery cable fix? - Just changed both batteries on my 2011 6.7. Noticed that the passenger side positive terminal connector may not . So if you want a bigger stereo install or are doing the upfitter retrofit on a 2018 you could try using the mini-power stroke high current fuse and not bother with any aftermarket .
Wiring over lay performed, smart junction box had few fuses blown and have been replaced. When ignition is turned on abs lights and park brake light on in dash, oil pressure .
Recently I have been having some air conditioning problems. I have tracked the problem down to a short within my battery junction box. When I remove fuse #30 I have 12v on .
You can see indiviually what each device draws by measuring the separate current at the high-current battery junction box (that's where the cab heater is fed from - off a 125A .
I should have just the box in a parts truck somewhere. Shoot me a PM tmrw sometime. I have spoken to three different Ford dealerships...one possibly believes it is a failed or failing alternator, the other believes it is a pin out issue and the last dealer mentioned .
Stick a voltmeter on the battery when it acts up and see if the system voltage is really that high. If it is, then there is either a short to the field windings, or the pcm is screwed . You are correct - it is the high current junction box that handles the alternator. Here is the gasser schematic and diesel schematic to give you an idea of what you need to do:
Under warranty, Ford replaced that battery with an OEM Motorcraft BXT-65-750 battery with a full replacement warranty of 12m or 12,000 miles. 1. Is it best to replace the other battery now or wait until it fails? Not sure if these batteries are connected in series or parallel as I don't want the old battery to draw down the new battery. 2.
6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - 2011 positive battery cable fix? - Just changed both batteries on my 2011 6.7. Noticed that the passenger side positive terminal connector may not be long for this world. I have searched and have not turned up anything really useful. Anyone had this problem and repaired it with out replacing. So if you want a bigger stereo install or are doing the upfitter retrofit on a 2018 you could try using the mini-power stroke high current fuse and not bother with any aftermarket MEGA fuses. If your doing it on the mini-power stroke your high current rail is already maxed out, gotta do something like I did. Wiring over lay performed, smart junction box had few fuses blown and have been replaced. When ignition is turned on abs lights and park brake light on in dash, oil pressure light and temp and wrench cycle thru display continuously.
Recently I have been having some air conditioning problems. I have tracked the problem down to a short within my battery junction box. When I remove fuse #30 I have 12v on the supply side and zero volts on the load side. You can see indiviually what each device draws by measuring the separate current at the high-current battery junction box (that's where the cab heater is fed from - off a 125A mega fuse) The reason I did the dual alts was to run my winch (10, 000 lbs) - that can draw some serious juice - even ignoring the cab heater draw. I should have just the box in a parts truck somewhere. Shoot me a PM tmrw sometime.
I have spoken to three different Ford dealerships...one possibly believes it is a failed or failing alternator, the other believes it is a pin out issue and the last dealer mentioned failing smart junction box. Confused and out of options so any direction on diagnosis would be great. Thank you! Stick a voltmeter on the battery when it acts up and see if the system voltage is really that high. If it is, then there is either a short to the field windings, or the pcm is screwed up. The voltage regulators are usually inside the pcm nowadays. If . You are correct - it is the high current junction box that handles the alternator. Here is the gasser schematic and diesel schematic to give you an idea of what you need to do: Under warranty, Ford replaced that battery with an OEM Motorcraft BXT-65-750 battery with a full replacement warranty of 12m or 12,000 miles. 1. Is it best to replace the other battery now or wait until it fails? Not sure if these batteries are connected in series or parallel as I don't want the old battery to draw down the new battery. 2.
6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - 2011 positive battery cable fix? - Just changed both batteries on my 2011 6.7. Noticed that the passenger side positive terminal connector may not be long for this world. I have searched and have not turned up anything really useful. Anyone had this problem and repaired it with out replacing. So if you want a bigger stereo install or are doing the upfitter retrofit on a 2018 you could try using the mini-power stroke high current fuse and not bother with any aftermarket MEGA fuses. If your doing it on the mini-power stroke your high current rail is already maxed out, gotta do something like I did. Wiring over lay performed, smart junction box had few fuses blown and have been replaced. When ignition is turned on abs lights and park brake light on in dash, oil pressure light and temp and wrench cycle thru display continuously. Recently I have been having some air conditioning problems. I have tracked the problem down to a short within my battery junction box. When I remove fuse #30 I have 12v on the supply side and zero volts on the load side.
You can see indiviually what each device draws by measuring the separate current at the high-current battery junction box (that's where the cab heater is fed from - off a 125A mega fuse) The reason I did the dual alts was to run my winch (10, 000 lbs) - that can draw some serious juice - even ignoring the cab heater draw. I should have just the box in a parts truck somewhere. Shoot me a PM tmrw sometime.
I have spoken to three different Ford dealerships...one possibly believes it is a failed or failing alternator, the other believes it is a pin out issue and the last dealer mentioned failing smart junction box. Confused and out of options so any direction on diagnosis would be great. Thank you!
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2011 f250 6.7 powerstroke high current batterie junction box|2011 ford f250 battery cable